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One found with joy that the South Indian spice mix podi – a coarse mix of intensely spicy, crudely milled spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest chilli flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight barbecue sticks (if made of wood, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves 2

14 ounces firm potatoes, cut into 4cm chunks
225g paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 cloves of garlic, prepared and minced
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons flavorless oil
One red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
10g fresh mint leaves, diced small
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then remove the water and leave to steam dry for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the spice seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the seasonings, then crush or grind to a coarse mixture.

Place in a medium-large bowl with the minced ginger and garlic, add the oil, then carefully mix in the ingredients to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and keep ready – optionally, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Beat all the sauce elements in a mixing bowl. Turn on the grill to its maximum heat, then bake the sticks for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.